Frostgrave in 10 mm

This is my 1 foot by 1 foot board for playing Frostgrave at 10 mm scale. It makes setting up and leaving very much easier than in 25 mm and I can have a very large number of buildings and ruins on the board.

These buildings I have been making over the last couple of weeks, had great fun doing them and will do some close ups of the more interesting builds in the future.

There are some rough ground obstacles shown here built on 2p pieces for weight and my initial attempts at treasure markers, which will have to be used as something else as they are too large. 

Here are the 10 mm miniatures I'm using to play with, they are all homemade and if you caught my last post about 30 mm flats then these are some of them reduced on my printer and cut as they were.

Group of skeletons above.

From left to right we have:

Hudson the thug, Eschiva the infantryman, Anselem the enchanter, Hafiza the man at arms and lastly, Brice the thief.

I'm playing solo and with only half a warband, so no apprentice, and all my soldiers are non specialists.

I'm trying a system where bye all the models receive xp and progress. Lets see how that goes?

A bit concerned that at this scale it could be a bit fiddly to say the least, only time will tell but the first practise game seemed ok to me, so will plough on. I'm hoping to sort mix in some Mordheim vibes and create some other game controled warbands that my motley lot have to combat in a narrative way. Will be playing about with some of the rules to suite my needs.

Found some Battle of the five armies terrain ruins yesterday so will be repainting those to use here too.

Dungeons and Dragons Flats

These are a selection of miniatures I've created for my players I've used in games this last year and a half. There are two separate groups of characters all playing in my city games set in Ghastminster, my homebrew setting.

These are all drawn by me and then coloured, copied, printed and cut, glued and based.

I got my players to create their PCs on Heroforge or sketch them, then they sent me the image and I created the drawing.  

I also draw out the backs using the same method, my players liked how personal it was to have a one off drawing made.

I always mount the design on black card and ink round the edges to get rid of any white paper I may have missed when cutting. However with lights used to illuminate the miniatures the varnish picks up the light and gives a sheen here... what  can you do?

I try to separate as many parts of the miniature out so that they look a bit more 3D and bend the whole mini when I glue it to the base, partly for stability and partly for the 3D aspect mentioned earlier. 

They are all drawn out as 30 mm miniatures with variances for species and this is how I make my 10 mm miniatures as well, will discuss this more in another post.

Creating a new High Elf unit: 3 mm Gaming

This is the unit we will be constructing today, its a High Elf unit similar to White Lions...ish.

I start by making the base so its all ready to have the models glued on, I don't like having little models hanging about waiting for their base, so I get it done first.

I have lost models in the past, swishing dogs tails!

Then the basic former for all my infantry is a 3 mm strip, marked up from the yellow sheet I made myself to keep sizes consistent.

You can see I have made a little stand and painting/gluing device for holding the miniatures as I make them. Once the basic shape is on I leave it to set off and start on the next process.

Cutting all the little bits that make the miniatures look "something like", in this case all the elves have a triangle to represent a cloak and a diminutive double handed axe.

When the basic shape is dry, not too long...10 mins, I start sticking the little components on. I use standard PVA throughout the process.

This part can be very fiddly and frustrating.

But finally all the bits are attached and I'm happy.

Final step is the leave, 10 mins again, then coat with PVA to make sure everything is attached nicely. You really need this step, there's nothing worse than finding bits dropping off at the painting stage.

I haven't shown me painting these as the construction was the main focus, however I use a Stanley knife to cut the strips from the holders and then tweezers and Aleene's Tacky Glue to get them in position.

Finally I give them a coat of acrylic varnish and they're done.

 

They never look great close up , but are OK in a big group on a table.