Village Building Models in 10 mm

I have been working on these 10 mm buildings for some while now, they are built along the same lines as the 10 mm ruined buildings I made a few months back.

I was quite pleased with how the ruins had come out so decided to create enough complete buildings so that I may be able to represent hamlets, villages and towns.

I decided that they would have two uses also. Firstly to go along with my 10 mm Frostgrave campaign, some of which I have shown previously. Secondly to be used in D&D to allow me to represent the above in a controllable scale.

I already had 3 buildings that I had made many years ago for Warmaster, but never got to use as all my friends that played, either stopped playing or sold their models.

With these 16 buildings I should be able to create all sorts of villages etc and they will be dead easy to store, being so small.

In development is another larger set of buildings, still in 10 mm, that I can use to create cities, I might create an interim post when the construction is complete.

Next  post will be concentrating on reinforcements for High Elves in 3 mm.

Thanks for visiting.

Orcs and Goblins: 30 mm Drawings

If I am going to be honest, which I am, these were drawn some time ago. Definitely in the last two months but had forgotten to post them.

These are very much inspired by the LOTR figures created by GW and apart from using them in D&D games I'm not that sure if they will come in handy anywhere else. 

I could definitely print them at 33% and use them to make 10 mm miniatures, however I'm not that keen to do that. 

Most of my 10 mm stuff has been focussed on historical miniatures.

Saxons, Vikings, Romans and the newest sheet I've been drawing, Ancient Greeks, which still need colouring so will be a while yet.

I enjoyed making these Goblinoid troops, but as soon as I had I realised I had nothing much to use them for.

Still they were fun to do and kept my eye in. Perhaps a use for them will present itself for them in the future.

Presently I'm very much in the process of reorganising my miniature collection. I have sold all my GW dark elves to Mirfield Miniatures along with my epic collection and various board games. Its been difficult to let them go, but I can't justify keeping boxes of models I haven't looked at for over 10 years.

I have been revisiting all my 3 mm fantasy armies to compensate for the loss of the larger stuff.

I intend selling off more later in the year.

Anyway hope you find this post vaguely interesting, thanks for visiting the Blog. 

 

Creating Flat Miniatures

I start making my flat miniatures by making sketches in a book. These are a combination of ideas from my own head, or ideas from other miniature manufacturers, see the list later. These are all ideas  for my DnD campaign set in Ghastminster which I may be revisiting next year.

Some of my drawings never get past this stage because I lose interest or because I don't like them, but others get to be developed into physical miniatures eventually. 

This is not a quick process and takes me ages to complete. I often get stuck at a point and have to revisit at a later date.

At this stage I  am  not always drawing to scale, although most medium size creatures /monsters are, as I have  a 30 mm template I use to get the proportions right.

Some ideas are huge.

I mostly try to create pages of flats that have many of useful figures, as opposed to just one or two, although that is unavoidable at times. I started trying to draw them at 15 mm scale but I found that I got far more detail at 30 mm and I could use them in a variety of different games.

So after the initial sketches are done, I progress onto organising my drawings onto an A4 sheet of paper.

Here is a sheet I worked on recently to create Roman troops, with their allies that I could use for two separate uses. Primarily these are going to be printed up at 33% and used as 10 mm flats.

However I also use  them as random models at 30 mm for use in roleplay, they'll make some lovely guards or barbarian adversaries. 

After drawing them in pencil, at the right size, I fold the page in two and use a light board to trace the outer image, which I can later fill in with pencil. Then I work over the lot in ink, using Pilot or Uni-ball pens or something similar. Finally I thicken all the outer lines and emphasize some others as I see fit. 

Finally I photocopy the black and white version and colour it. I never colour the original just in case I cock it up or I don't like the colours I chose. Sometimes I use acrylics and paint them, but recently I bought some reasonably nice pens and used them instead, as with these below.

Here we have Legionaries, Spanish infantry, Numidian light infantry and Gallic infantry.

I tend to colour the reverse side at the same time so as not to get myself in a mess.

These can then be colour photocopied, cut, glued to black card and based, ready for use in a game.

Next post I will show some of these in 10 mm based up for Warmaster type games.

Influences include: Games Workshop, Foundry Miniatures, North Star Military Models, D&D Dungeon Masters Book, there will be many more ideas that have seeped into my head but can't recall them all.

Dungeons and Dragons Flats

These are a selection of miniatures I've created for my players I've used in games this last year and a half. There are two separate groups of characters all playing in my city games set in Ghastminster, my homebrew setting.

These are all drawn by me and then coloured, copied, printed and cut, glued and based.

I got my players to create their PCs on Heroforge or sketch them, then they sent me the image and I created the drawing.  

I also draw out the backs using the same method, my players liked how personal it was to have a one off drawing made.

I always mount the design on black card and ink round the edges to get rid of any white paper I may have missed when cutting. However with lights used to illuminate the miniatures the varnish picks up the light and gives a sheen here... what  can you do?

I try to separate as many parts of the miniature out so that they look a bit more 3D and bend the whole mini when I glue it to the base, partly for stability and partly for the 3D aspect mentioned earlier. 

They are all drawn out as 30 mm miniatures with variances for species and this is how I make my 10 mm miniatures as well, will discuss this more in another post.