Kill Team Board

This is one possibility of my version of a Kill Team board, it's made from 2 parts.

The larger part is the 2ft square board I finished recently added to which is a board I sometimes use for D&D which is 2ft by 1ft.

This gives me 36" by 24" playing area which is close enough to the 22" by 30" for me :-)

Many of these small pieces of terrain I have used before for several other games but I was really trying to make loads of new pieces.

However I have tried to use terrain pieces I haven't used in a more modern setting. I can see a lot of the frostgrave archs and wall sections being used to give a bit more of a gothic theme and also perhaps some buildings I made for Mordheim a while back.

I quite like the 2 differing boards coming together, think it works OK. Actually reminds me a bit of the board you get in the Kill Team boxed set....vaguely.

One area I think could stand some development is the rubble sections, I need more of them and in differing sizes. I could also made some of the smaller containers together in groups to make setting them out and gameplay a bit easier. 

Probably the only nod to the gothic nature of Kill Team on the board are these"things", not really sure what they are. Graves? fallen arches or windows, perhaps. I know how I made them, they were the centres of doors cut from another build I did a long time ago which I could not toss in the recycling, they looked too interesting.

All the buildings are from my Necromunda collection which are appropriate enough if a littleindustrial. 

Finally I need to complete the edge of the larger board as seeing the chip board is doing my head in.

Luke's APS: How To Build A Ultimate Kill Team Table Part 5 (Water Effects & Finishin...

The final video in a smashing series by Luke, there are another 4 previous to watch :-)

D&D 5e: 2D Cottage Designs

I have included some of the notes and drawings I have made related to the initial ideas for the cottage floorplans and some of the final designs in black and white.

Some notes and even a colour test as I used crap emulsion match pots for the most part watered down to give a watercolour effect.

Drawings with rendering.

I had fun adding some interesting details.

A pre rendered shot, no hatching at all.

Some prepainted rooms, ready to be scanned and then printed and finally painted.

All the templates I used to make sure all the separate elements were same scale.

Final pieces coloured and laminated for use.

These might work for Zombicide too.

D&D5e: Yeti

These are a couple of Yeti from the Reaper Bones range and considering they are only three quid each I love these miniatures.

They featured in a recent game of D&D set up in the snowy mountains of my campaign world and they did just the job. Reaper bones are the go to range of models for cheap creatures and monsters.

Granted they don't have great bases, but its easy enough to make your own like I did.

I just used loads of washes after a black base then a white overbrush.

The bases are card with PVA and Bicarb mixed together and spread on, finally I added some green glass bits from the Range.

Now I'm thinking how can I use these monsters again or should I get more and create a unit of them for a Kings of War army? But which one?

D&D 5e: Cottage Floor plans

Generally I like to make my terrain and buildings as 3D as it's possible to get most of the time, however I have a situation where that mindset is really not going to help me.

In my current D&D campaign that I am DM ing the group are about to start adventuring in a large town for the first time. While I have plans and maps of the town itself, I wanted the PCs to be able to negotiate at least an estate of the town at a time on the play area. They like using models and so do I. 

So I came up with what I hope will be a quick solution that I can use time and time again.

This is the first of many different houses that I will be able to lay out and expect the PCs to never enter most of the time. I have designed 5 different types of cottage and a few other buildings like tenements and larger more well to do homes.

When they are inked and painted I will scan them so I can produce them when ever I need them. Finally I'll laminate them to keep them tidy.

With some models to give a sense of scale.

Before I get people telling me the stairs don't work, I know its a graphic solution to a fiddly problem that keeps it simple and hopefully continues to fool my artistic eye for the foreseeable future.